Une Vagabonde

A taste of the bohemian lifestyle...
Applecross - Stags

Applecross: the hidden gem of the Scottish Highlands

As we were enjoying a scrumptious breakfast at Catherine’s table in our beautiful BnB in Thrumster, we shared our road map with a lovely couple whom was sitting at the table. As soon as I mentioned Applecross, the man’s face lit up. “It’s such a beautiful place, you’re going to love it there. Although… which one of you is driving?”

Three of us are French and very unfamiliar with driving on the “other” side of the road. It was decided then and there that Esther, our only “local” would be the designated driver for that round. I became very curious about “the road to Applecross”.

The Applecross Peninsula: a place you have to deserve

Applecross is not a single village but a peninsula comprising over twenty coastal townships. From Tornapress, the long and winding road is one gigantic single track going up a small mountain. Frequently, you have to use the “passing places” to make way for all sorts of vehicles: other cars, hordes of motorbikes, the occasional courageous (insane?) mountain bikers, and trucks that, in my opinion, have no business being on this road.

Road to Applecross

Once you reach the top of the mountain, there’s room to park and enjoy the view. Or, in our case (and probably on most days), the fog. You might feel a little shaky… we did. And we were only half-way through. However, the second half of the drive was uneventful and we reached Broch without a scratch. No need to say, Esther was crowned “Driving Queen” that night.

The area’s mountains, beaches, woodlands, lochs and rivers offer a plethora of opportunities to see many forms of wildlife, including the stags’s welcome committee at the end of the road. I really wish we had stayed longer to explore the peninsula even more.

Applecross Wall garden and tea shop

Although our stay in Applecross was the moment when the infamous Scottish weather decided to show up, we found safe havens both at Clive and Maureen’s B&B and at the Applecross Wall Garden restaurant and tea shop. At the bottom of a beautiful floral garden, at the beginning of several trail tracks, is this wonderful sanctuary: a mouth-watering menu, a friendly welcome, a great selection of teas. Yet another wonder of the peninsula.

Applecross is a place that never ceased to make me think that I wanted to stay longer and explore more. There will have to be a round 2.

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